Some watch collectors enter the game hoping to find a solid deal on a piece that will increase in value. Though most watches lose value after their initial purchase, some brands stand outside of that trend and offer the possibility of decent returns, especially when considering the secondary market. Here are 7 brands that buck the trend and offer a potential for returns:
Rolex
It should come as no surprise that Rolex tops the list of brands with investment potential. If you have a good relationship with your dealer and a fair bit of patience, the Daytona can be picked up at retail for $16,000 while selling on secondary markets for more than twice that. There are also a range of cheaper rolexes which you can find on sites like Chrono24 or SwissWatchGang. This wide gap between retail and secondary prices speaks to the main characteristic of every watch that ultimately goes up in value: demand. Because Rolex is such a well known brand, even attracting the attention of people who aren’t otherwise interested in watches, many of their pieces are in high demand and offer the potential for profit.
Omega
Omega watches may not be known for the same legendary returns as Rolex, but they are perhaps the second most recognized watch brand in the world. The brand is the Official Timekeeper for the Olympic and Paralympic Games, it beat Rolex to the moon, and enjoys plenty of screentime on the wrist of the world’s most famous spy, James Bond. Such renown helps models like the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Seamaster hold their value over time, with some precious metal and limited edition variances offering good investment potential.
Cartier
Most watches with the greatest demand are well-known beyond the sphere of collectors, and Cartier is another brand among the handful that enjoy recognition outside of those circles. There is perhaps no better testament to this than the iconic Cartier Crash. Adorning the wrist of many a famed athlete or rapper in formal settings, the Crash originally sold for around $1,000 in the 60s, or about $7,500 today. Until the early 2020s, collectors could find a Crash for less than $50,000. Now, original examples rarely hit auction and typically bring in more than $1 million when they do.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre may not earn the same level of notoriety as previously mentioned brands, but it’s hard to deny that the brand offers good value when they have a reputation as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker.” Established in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed movements for brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron, earning them a unique status within the industry. In spite of their almost two-hundred years of horological history and the respect they garner among competitors, JLC’s lesser-known status causes some of their pieces to dip in value initially. But the watches are still sought after by those in the know, which helps with value retention, making it possible to find a good deal on models like the Reverso and Master Ultra Thin, both of which are still in high demand among collectors.
Tudor
As a sibling of Rolex, Tudor has become a defacto choice for collectors who want the same level of quality at a slightly lower price point, and the brand’s growing popularity helps their watches retain value over time. All of these factors have fostered growth in the vintage Tudor market, and in 2018 a Tudor Big Crown Submariner ref. 7924 sold for a jaw-dropping $162,500.
Oris
It may be a bit of a surprise to some, but rare Oris watches have performed well on secondary markets. This isn’t to say that Oris is making waves in the market, but the more rare colorways of models like the Big Crown Pointer Date have increased in value over time. With a brand like Oris, the trick is to keep an eye out for a good deal on a rare piece.
Nomos Glashutte
The recent success of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer has put Nomos Glashutte on the radar for many collectors. The limited edition colorways are fetching healthy returns on the secondary market, for those who were lucky enough to pick one up on release, and the standard colors have held their value well. The company’s use of in-house movements and high horology techniques help attract even more attention to the German watch market, and if the Worldtimer is an indication of the brand’s vision for the future, there could be some good deals to be had before Nomos becomes more widely known.
